Shchi in their most complete version consists of six main components - cabbage (or the leading vegetable mass replacing it), meat (or, in very rare cases, fish, mushrooms - dried and salted), roots (carrots, parsley root), spicy dressing
(onion, celery, garlic, dill, pepper, bay leaf) and sour dressing (sour cream, apples, cabbage pickle). Of these six components, the first and last, i.e., the vegetable leading mass and the sour dressing, are indispensable and absolutely indispensable. The simplest cabbage soup can consist only of them, while continuing to be cabbage soup.
As for the leading vegetable mass in cabbage soup, most often it is cabbage - fresh or sauerkraut. But this does not mean that shchi is soup with cabbage. A sign of cabbage soup is acid, most often created by sauerkraut brine (either as part of cabbage or in its pure form) or, instead, by sorrel (green cabbage soup), a boil of green, wild or Antonov apples, salted mushrooms, and also sour cream (in soup from fresh cabbage). That is why cabbage can be replaced in soups with various green, sour or neutral masses (sorrel, goutweed, nettle, cow parsnip - in the so-called green soups), as well as a neutral vegetable mass that absorbs acid well (turnip or radish - in the so-called burdock soups). ).
The technology for preparing all types of cabbage soup is the same. First, meat or mushrooms are boiled separately with roots and onions. Then cabbage or its substitutes and acid are added to the finished broth. If sauerkraut is used for cabbage soup, then it is boiled separately from the meat broth and combined with it after it is ready. In both cases, only after boiling the vegetable mass to the required softness, salt and spicy dressing are added. Sour cream is seasoned with ready-made cabbage soup, most often during their serving.
Initially, flour dressing was also introduced into cabbage soup (together with cabbage) in order to make the soup broth more dense. This was customary in the western and southern regions of Russia.
However, such a dressing worsens the taste of cabbage soup, coarsens their aroma. Therefore, with the advent of potatoes, in order to starch the broth, one or two potatoes began to be added to the cabbage soup - in its entirety, before laying the cabbage and the sour base. Moreover, often the potatoes are then removed from the cabbage soup, since it hardens from acid. The thickening of the consistency of the broth in lean and green cabbage soup is also facilitated by the addition of a small amount of cereal, usually buckwheat (1 tablespoon for the entire pan), which is completely boiled.
The simpler the vegetable composition of cabbage soup, the leaner they are, the more skill is required for their preparation. Real cabbage soup is inconceivable without spicy dressing, which plays a significant role in creating the “sweet spirit”. First of all, the introduction of onion into cabbage soup is of great importance. in the best way is its double bookmark: the first time - a whole onion along with meat, roots and mushrooms (then this onion is taken out) and the second time - finely chopped onions (chopped) along with cabbage. At the same time, onion overcooked separately in oil should never be added to cabbage soup - in this form it is not characteristic of real cabbage soup.
In the same way, another spicy dressing, parsley and celery, is added to the cabbage soup twice: the first time - with a root, which is then taken out along with the onion, the second time - at the end of cooking, in the form of greens. The remaining spices - bay leaf, black pepper with crushed peas, dill and garlic are added as follows: the first two types - 15 minutes before readiness, the second two - along with parsley at the end of cooking. After that, the cabbage soup must necessarily stand under the lid, simmer to infuse, for at least 10-15 minutes. It is at this time that the cabbage soup “reaches its real taste”: the cabbage becomes soft, the acid and aroma of spices are transferred to the vegetables. Therefore, first they left the cabbage soup to simmer and languish after cooking in the light spirit of the Russian oven, where they did not cool down, or they set it aside on the edge of the stove, where the heat was preserved, but the boiling stopped. Especially need this cabbage soup from sauerkraut. It is good to put them in a slightly heated oven for 10-15 minutes, or even more. Sometimes the infusion of cabbage soup can last several hours (from 12 to 24), which is why they acquire a better and more distinctive taste. Such cabbage soup is called diurnal, they are prepared ahead of time, in a day.
Finally, attention should be paid to two more circumstances that affect the quality of cabbage soup - this is the choice of meat and whitening or whitening.
Shchi is served with beef, mostly fatty - brisket, thin and thick edge, rump. To create a special smell, you can add a small amount of ham to beef - a tenth - eighth (and in the south of Russia even a third) part of the weight of beef. At the same time, beef in cabbage soup is always boiled in a whole piece, and the ham is chopped. All meat components are subjected to grinding only in prefabricated cabbage soup. Soup from one pork, found mainly in the regions of Russia bordering Ukraine, is not typical of Russian cuisine. The same can be said about cabbage soup with fish instead of meat found in certain regions of Russia. For such cabbage soup, a special selection of fish (salted red - beluga and sturgeon, in combination with river fish - perch, crucian carp and tench) and their separate heat treatment were certainly required. A different way of cooking cabbage soup with fish, and with its other varieties, gives not so tasty dish, which therefore did not gain popularity.
As for whitening, good cabbage soup cannot do without it. The role of whitening is usually performed by sour cream, which is also an acidifier. Sometimes sour cream is replaced with curdled milk or just milk. In rich cabbage soup from sauerkraut, a mixture of sour cream and cream in a 4: 1 ratio serves as a protein. This is a very tasty snack.
A few words about the consistency of cabbage soup. Shchi of all types can be thick or liquid, depending on the ratio of water and the weight of the enclosed products. Once upon a time, thick cabbage soup was considered ideal, in which “a spoon stands”, or “a cabbage soup with a slide”, that is, when a piece of meat rises above the surface of liquid and thick poured into a plate. Our recipes are designed for cabbage soup of more than medium density; this means that the amount of liquid per serving should not exceed 350 g. Therefore, cold water should be poured no more than 2 liters per 4 servings, and preferably 1.5 liters, so that the finished broth is 1.25 1 liter (after boiling). It should be cooked for 2 hours. Spices are added to the cabbage soup 5-10 minutes before readiness.
Shchi is usually eaten with black, rye bread.
Recipe for rich (full) cabbage soup
Shchi Ingredients:
Soup preparation:
- Put the beef together with the onion and half of the roots (carrots, parsley, celery) in cold water and boil for 2 hours. After 1 1.5 hours after the start of cooking, salt, then strain the broth, discard the roots.
- Put in a clay pot sauerkraut, pour it with 0.5 liters of boiling water, add butter, close, put in a moderately heated oven. When the cabbage begins to soften, remove it and combine with strained broth and beef.
- Mushrooms and a potato cut into 4 parts put in an enameled saucepan, pour 2 cups of cold water and put on fire. When the water boils, remove the mushrooms, cut into strips and again lower into the mushroom broth to cook. After the mushrooms and potatoes are ready, combine with meat broth.
- To the combined broths and cabbage, add finely chopped onion and all other roots, cut into strips, and spices (except garlic and dill), salt and cook for 20 minutes. Then remove from heat, season with dill and garlic and let it brew for about 15 minutes, wrapped in something warm.
Before serving, season with coarsely chopped salted mushrooms and sour cream directly in the plates.
My humble blog celebrates the first "serious" anniversary - the 50th recipe! And for such a case, the recipe should be special. I thought about it and decided that this No. 50 should be from Russian cuisine, planned, but undeservedly empty since the blog was founded. Moreover, since I turned up a very authoritative source - a book by the famous historian and culinary specialist William Pokhlebkin.
When I received the book, I skimmed through the pages and appreciated the solidity of the author's approach, which brought together many, including, old recipes Russian, Belarusian and Ukrainian cuisines. There will definitely be plenty to choose from and where to roam! :)
The pioneer recipe was chosen by me, in fact, by accident. I just suddenly remembered that there is pickle there, and I haven’t eaten it for a long time.
Upon closer examination, it turned out that this recipe for Russian cuisine and my mother's pickle has almost the only thing in common. And this is the presence of pickles, which makes the soup a pickle. Otherwise, instead of meat - chicken offal, instead of pearl barley - rice, instead of potatoes - turnips. And besides this, a large amount of any fragrant greens and onions of two types. These are the vicissitudes of Russian cuisine.
I can say that this chicken pickle turns out to be very interesting, perfectly saturates, but does not leave behind heaviness. Perfect soup for the beginning of spring, when there are a lot of fresh herbs!
My Cooking Comments:
|
* Pokhlebkin recommends using offal from 2 chickens. But since the only offal I perceive is chicken hearts, it was decided to take only them. And you can take a mixture of hearts and ventricles. * Those ingredients where the quantity is indicated through a hyphen should be determined based on their size. Well, it's partly personal preference. * I only used the white part of the leek. * I give the recipe, as in the original. This time I myself found myself in flight with parsley root, so I don’t have it. * I highly recommend trying the salt before serving. But not immediately after removing from heat, but after 5 minutes, so that the taste has time to fully reveal. If necessary, you can add a little salt. |
We will need (about 3 liters per pan):
| chicken hearts | about 400 g |
| Salted cucumbers | 4-6 pcs |
| Carrot | 1 PC |
| Turnip | 1-2 pcs |
| Rice | 3 tbsp |
| Onion | 1 PC |
| Leek | 1 stem |
| Parsley | 1 root + greens |
| Dill | 2 tbsp |
| Tarragon | 1 tbsp |
| Thyme | 1 tbsp |
| peppercorns | 8-10 pieces |
| Bay leaf | 2 pcs |
| Garlic | 2 cloves |
| Butter | 1 tbsp with a slide |
Source: V. Pokhlebkin, Cuisines of the Slavic peoples
Cooking:
1.
We start by preparing the hearts. We cut off excess fat, rinse thoroughly from the inside so that there are no blood clots left in the valves. We cut the hearts into pieces (2-3 parts), again carefully checking that there is nothing superfluous left. 
2.
We put the chopped hearts in boiling water (about 2 liters) and cook for about 40 minutes. 
3.
During this time, we prepare the roots: we clean the carrots and cut them into strips, we clean the turnips and cut them into a small cube, parsley root into thin strips. 
4.
We prepare cucumbers: remove the skin, pour it with 1 cup of boiling water (not the one in which hearts are boiled) and boil for 10-15 minutes. Cucumbers cut into small pieces. We discard the skin, it is no longer needed. Put the chopped cucumbers into the brine and let them simmer for about 10 minutes. 
5.
We spread turnips, parsley root and carrots to the hearts. 
6.
Rinse the rice thoroughly and place in a bowl. Cook rice until half cooked. 
7.
In the meantime, peel and finely chop the onion, and the leek into thin rings. 
8.
We spread the leek and onion in the soup, add the pepper and bay leaf, cook until the rice is ready. 
9.
Add cucumbers and a little brine, cook for 5-7 minutes. 
10.
Add thyme, tarragon, parsley and dill, cook for about 3 more minutes. 
11.
Separately, grind the butter with chopped garlic and add it to the soup, removing it from the heat. Stir until dissolved.
Russian cuisine has long been widely known throughout the world. This manifests itself as a direct penetration into the international restaurant cuisine of primordially Russian food products(caviar, red fish, sour cream, buckwheat, rye flour etc.) or some of the most famous dishes of the Russian national menu (jelly, cabbage soup, fish soup, pancakes, pies, etc.), and in the indirect influence of Russian culinary art on the cuisines of other peoples. Assortment of Russian cuisine dishes at the turn of the 19th and 20th centuries. became so diverse, and its influence and popularity in Europe are so great that by this time they were talking about it with the same respect as about the famous French cuisine.
Russian national cuisine has gone through an extremely long path of development, marked by several major stages, each of which has left an indelible mark.
Old Russian cuisine, which developed from the 9th-10th centuries. and reached its greatest prosperity in the XV-XVI centuries, although its formation covers a huge historical period, it is characterized by common features that have largely been preserved to this day.
At the beginning of this period, Russian bread appeared from sour (yeast) rye dough- this uncrowned king is on our table, without him even now it is unthinkable Russian menu, - and also all other important types of Russian bread and flour products arose: the known to us saiki, bagels, juicy, donuts, pancakes, pancakes, pies, etc. These products were prepared exclusively on the basis of sour dough- so characteristic of Russian cuisine throughout its historical development. The addiction to sour, kvass was also reflected in the creation of Russian real kissels - oatmeal, wheat and rye, which appeared long before modern ones. Mostly berry jelly.
A large place in the menu was also occupied by various gruels and porridges, which were originally considered ritual, solemn food.
All this bread, flour food diversified most of all with fish, mushrooms, forest berries, vegetables, milk, and very rarely - with meat.
By the same time, the appearance of classic Russian drinks - all kinds of honey, kvass, sbitney.
Already in the early period of the development of Russian cuisine, a sharp division of the Russian table into lean (vegetable-fish-mushroom) and fast food (milk-egg-meat) was outlined, which had a huge impact on its further development until the end of the 19th century. The artificial creation of a line between a fast and fast table, the isolation of some products from others, and the prevention of their mixing ultimately led to the creation of only some original dishes, and the entire menu as a whole has suffered - it has become more monotonous, simplified.
It can be said that the Lenten table was more fortunate: since most of the days in the year - from 192 to 216 in different years - were considered Lenten (and these fasts were observed very strictly), it was natural to expand the assortment of the Lenten table. Hence the abundance of mushroom and fish dishes in Russian cuisine, the tendency to use various vegetable raw materials - grains (porridge), vegetables, wild berries and herbs (nettles, gouts, quinoa, etc.). Moreover, such well-known from the tenth century. vegetables like cabbages, turnips, radishes, peas, cucumbers were cooked and eaten - whether raw, salted, steamed, boiled or baked - separately from one another. Therefore, for example, salads and especially vinaigrettes have never been characteristic of Russian cuisine and appeared in Russia already in the 19th century. as a borrowing from the West. But they were also originally made mainly with one vegetable, giving the corresponding name to the salad - cucumber salad, beet salad, potato salad, etc. Each type of mushroom - milk mushrooms, mushrooms, mushrooms, porcini, morels, stoves (champignons), etc. etc. - salted or cooked completely separately, which, by the way, is still practiced today. The same can be said about fish, which was consumed boiled, dried, salted, baked, and less often fried. In the literature we meet juicy, "delicious" names of fish dishes: sigovina, taimenin, pike, halibut, catfish, salmon, sturgeon, stellate sturgeon, beluga and others. And the ear could be perch, and ruff, and burbot, and sturgeon, etc.
Thus, the number of dishes by name was huge, but all of them differed little from each other in content. Taste diversity was achieved, firstly, by the difference in heat and cold processing, as well as the use of various oils, mainly vegetable (hemp, nut, poppy, olive, and much later - sunflower), and secondly, the use of spices. Of the latter, onion, garlic, horseradish, dill were most often used, and in very large quantities, as well as parsley, anise, coriander, bay leaf, black pepper and cloves, which appeared in Rus' already in the 10th-11th centuries. Later, in the 15th - early 16th centuries, they were supplemented with ginger, cardamom, cinnamon, calamus (calamus root) and saffron.
In the initial period of the development of Russian cuisine, there was also a tendency to consume liquid hot dishes, which then received the general name "khlebova". The most widespread are such types of bread as cabbage soup, stews based on vegetable raw materials, as well as various mashes, brews, talkers, salomats and other types of flour soups.
As for meat and milk, these products were consumed relatively rarely, and their processing was not difficult. Meat, as a rule, was boiled in cabbage soup or porridge, milk was drunk raw, stewed or sour. Dairy products were used to make cottage cheese and sour cream, while the production of cream and butter remained almost unknown for a long time, at least until the 15th-16th centuries. these products appeared rarely, irregularly.
The next stage in the development of Russian cuisine is the period from the middle of the XVI century. until the end of the 17th century. At this time, not only the further development of variants of the lenten and fast meals continues, but the differences between the cuisines of various classes and estates are especially sharply indicated. From that time on, the cuisine of the common people began to become more and more simple, the cuisine of the boyars, the nobility, and especially the nobility, became more and more refined. She collects, combines and generalizes the experience of previous centuries in the field of Russian culinary arts, creates on the basis of it new, more complex versions of old dishes, and for the first time borrows and openly introduces into Russian cuisine a number of foreign dishes and culinary techniques, mainly of Eastern origin.
Particular attention is drawn to the modest festive table that time. Along with the already familiar corned beef and boiled meat a place of honor on the table of the nobility is occupied by skewered (i.e., cooked on skewers) and fried meat, poultry and game. The types of meat processing are increasingly differentiated. So, beef goes mainly for cooking corned beef and for boiling (boiled slaughter); ham is made from pork for long-term storage, or it is used as fresh or milk pig in fried and stewed form, and in Russia only meat, lean pork is valued; finally, mutton, poultry and game are used mainly for roasts and only partly (mutton) for stewing.
In the 17th century all the main types of Russian soups finally add up, while kali, hangovers, hodgepodges, pickles, unknown in medieval Rus', appear.
Enriched and Lenten table know. A prominent place on it begins to be occupied by balyk, black caviar, which was eaten not only salted, but also boiled in vinegar or poppy milk.
Culinary of the 17th century strong influence is exerted by the eastern and, first of all, Tatar cuisine, which is associated with the accession in the second half of the XVI century. to the Russian state of the Astrakhan and Kazan khanates, Bashkiria and Siberia. It was during this period that dishes from unleavened dough(noodles, dumplings), products such as raisins, apricots, figs (figs), as well as lemons and tea, the use of which has since become traditional in Russia. Thus, the sweet table is significantly replenished. Next to the gingerbread, known in Rus' even before the adoption of Christianity, one could see a variety of gingerbread, sweet pies, candy, candied fruits, numerous jams, not only from berries, but also from some vegetables (carrots with honey and ginger, radish in molasses) . In the second half of the XVII century. Cane sugar began to be brought to Russia (1), from which, together with spices, candies and snacks, sweets, delicacies, fruits, etc. were cooked. But all these sweet dishes were mainly the privilege of the nobility (2).
For the boyar table, an extraordinary abundance of dishes becomes characteristic - up to 50, and at the royal table their number grows to 150-200. The sizes of these dishes are also huge, for which the largest swans, geese, turkeys, the largest sturgeons or beluga are usually chosen - sometimes they are so large that three or four people lift them. At the same time, there is a desire to decorate dishes. Palaces are built from foodstuffs, fantastic animals of gigantic proportions. Court dinners turn into a pompous, magnificent ritual that lasts 6-8 hours in a row - from two in the afternoon to ten in the evening - and includes almost a dozen changes, each of which consists of a whole series (sometimes two dozen) of the same name dishes, for example from a dozen varieties of fried game or salted fish, from a dozen types of pancakes or pies (3).
Thus, in the XVII century. Russian cuisine was already extremely diverse in terms of the range of dishes (we are talking, of course, about the cuisine of the ruling classes). At the same time, the art of cooking in the sense of the ability to combine products, to reveal their taste, was still at a very low level. Suffice it to say that, as before, mixing of products, their grinding, grinding, crushing was not allowed. Most of all, this applied to meat table. Therefore, Russian cuisine, in contrast to French and German, for a long time did not know and did not want to accept various minced meats, rolls, pastes and cutlets. All kinds of casseroles and puddings turned out to be alien to the ancient Russian cuisine. The desire to cook a dish from a whole large piece, and ideally from a whole animal or plant, persisted until the 18th century. The exception seemed to be fillings in pies, in whole animals and poultry, and in their parts - abomasum, omentum. However, in most cases it was, so to speak, ready-made fillings, crushed by nature itself - grain (porridge), berries, mushrooms (they were not cut either). The fish for the filling was only plastified, but not crushed. And only much later - at the end of the XVIII century. and especially in the nineteenth century. - already under the influence of Western European cuisine, some fillings began to grind on purpose.
The next stage in the development of Russian cuisine begins at the turn of the 17th and 18th centuries. and lasts a little more than a century - until the first decade of the XIX century. At this time, there is a radical delimitation of the cuisine of the ruling classes and the cuisine of the common people. If in the 17th century the cuisine of the ruling classes still retained a national character and its difference from the folk cuisine was expressed only in the fact that in terms of quality, abundance and assortment of products and dishes it sharply surpassed the folk cuisine, then in the 18th century. the cuisine of the ruling classes gradually began to lose the Russian national character. Since the time of Peter the Great, the Russian nobility and the rest of the nobility have been borrowing and introducing Western European culinary traditions. Wealthy nobles who visited Western Europe brought foreign chefs with them. At first they were mostly Dutch and German, especially Saxon and Austrian, then Swedish and predominantly French. From the middle of the XVIII century. foreign cooks were discharged so regularly that they soon almost completely replaced the cooks and serf cooks from the higher nobility.
One of the new customs that appeared at this time should be considered the use of snacks as an independent dish. German sandwiches, French and Dutch cheeses that came from the West and hitherto unknown on the Russian table were combined with old Russian dishes - cold corned beef, jelly, ham, boiled pork, as well as caviar, salmon and other salted red fish in a single serving or even in a special meal - breakfast. There are also new alcoholic drinks- ratafii and erofeichi. Since the 70s of the XVIII century, when tea began to gain more and more importance, in the highest circles of society, sweet pies, pies and sweets stood out beyond the dinner table, which were combined with tea in a separate serving and dated for 5 pm.
Only in the first half of the 19th century, after the Patriotic War of 1812, in connection with the general rise of patriotism in the country and the struggle of Slavophile circles with foreign influence, did progressive representatives of the nobility begin to revive interest in national Russian cuisine. However, when in 1816 the Tula landowner V. A. Levshin tried to compile the first Russian cookbook, he was forced to state that “information about Russian dishes has almost completely disappeared” and therefore “it is now impossible to present a complete description of Russian cuisine and should be content only by what else can be collected from what remains in memory, for the history of Russian cooking has never been given over to description" (4). As a result, the descriptions of Russian cuisine dishes collected by V. A. Levshin from memory were not only not accurate in their recipe, but also in their assortment far from reflecting the real richness of the dishes of the Russian national table.
The cuisine of the ruling classes and during the first half of the XIX century. continued to develop in isolation from the folk, under the noticeable influence of French cuisine. But the very nature of this influence has changed significantly. In contrast to the 18th century, when there was a direct borrowing of foreign dishes, such as cutlets, sausages, omelettes, mousses, compotes, etc., and the displacement of primordially Russian ones, in the first half of the 19th century. a different process was designated - the processing of the Russian culinary heritage, and in the second half of the 19th century. even the restoration of the Russian national menu begins, however, again with French adjustments.
A number of French chefs worked in Russia during this period, radically reforming the Russian cuisine of the ruling classes. The first French chef who left a mark on the reform of Russian cuisine was Marie-Antoine Karem - one of the first and few chefs-researchers, chefs-scientists. Before coming to Russia at the invitation of Prince P.I. Bagration, Karem was the cook of the English Prince Regent (future King George IV), Duke of Württemberg, Rothschild, Talleyrand. He was keenly interested in the cuisines of various nations. During his short stay in Russia, Karem got acquainted with Russian cuisine in detail, appreciated its merits and outlined ways to free it from alluvial. Karem's successors in Russia continued the reform he had begun. This reform touched, firstly, the order of serving dishes to the table. adopted in the 18th century. The "French" serving system, when all dishes were put on the table at the same time, was replaced by the old Russian way of serving, when one dish replaced another. At the same time, the number of changes was reduced to 4-5 and a sequence was introduced in serving dinner, in which heavy dishes alternated with light and appetizing ones. In addition, whole-cooked meat or poultry was no longer served on the table; before serving, they began to be cut into portions. With such a system, decorating dishes as an end in itself has lost all meaning. The reformers also advocated the replacement of dishes from crushed and mashed products, which occupied a large place in the cuisine of the ruling classes in the 18th and early 19th centuries, with dishes from natural products more typical of Russian cuisine. So there were all kinds of chops (lamb and pork) from a whole piece of meat with a bone, natural steaks, bedbugs, langets, entrecotes, escalopes. At the same time, the efforts of culinary specialists were aimed at eliminating the heaviness and indigestibility of some dishes. So, in the recipes for cabbage soup, they discarded the flour podbolt that made them tasteless, which was preserved only by virtue of tradition, and not common sense, they began to widely use potatoes in garnishes, which appeared in Russia in the 70s of the 18th century. For Russian pies, they suggested using tender sour instead of rye. puff pastry from wheat flour. They also entered safe way making dough with pressed yeast, which we use today, thanks to which the sour dough, which previously took 10-12 hours to prepare, began to keep up in 2 hours. French chefs also paid attention to snacks, which became one of the specific features of the Russian table. If in the XVIII century. the German form of serving snacks prevailed - sandwiches, then in the 19th century. they began to serve appetizers on a special table, each type on a special dish, beautifully decorating them, and thus expanded their assortment so much, choosing among the appetizers a whole range of old Russian not only meat and fish, but also mushroom and vegetable sauerkraut dishes, that their abundance and variety henceforth never ceased to be a constant object of astonishment to foreigners.
Finally, the French school introduced a combination of products (vinaigrettes, salads, side dishes) and precise dosages in recipes that were not previously accepted in Russian cuisine, and introduced Russian cuisine to unknown types of Western European kitchen equipment.
At the end of the XIX century. the Russian stove and pots and cast-iron pots specially adapted to its thermal regime were replaced by a stove with its oven, pots, stewpans, etc. Instead of a sieve and a sieve, they began to use colanders, skimmers, meat grinders, etc.
An important contribution of French culinary specialists to the development of Russian cuisine was the fact that they prepared a whole galaxy of brilliant Russian chefs. Their students were Mikhail and Gerasim Stepanov, G. Dobrovolsky, V. Bestuzhev, I. Radetsky, P. Grigoriev, I. Antonov, Z. Eremeev, N. Khodeev, P. Vikentiev and others, who supported and spread the best traditions of Russian cuisine in throughout the 19th century. Of these, G. Stepanov and I. Radetsky were not only outstanding practitioners, but also left behind extensive manuals on Russian cooking.
In parallel with this process of updating the cuisine of the ruling classes, carried out, so to speak, "from above" and concentrated in the noble clubs and restaurants of St. estates until the 70s of the XIX century. The source for this collection was folk cuisine, in the development of which a huge number of nameless and unknown, but talented serf cooks took part.
By the last third of the XIX century. Russian cuisine of the ruling classes, thanks to the unique assortment of dishes, their exquisite and delicate taste, began to occupy one of the leading places in Europe along with French cuisine.
At the same time, it must be emphasized that, despite all the changes, introductions and foreign influences, its main characteristic features have been preserved and have remained inherent in it to the present, as they have been steadfastly kept in the folk cuisine. These main features of Russian cuisine and the Russian national table can be defined as follows: an abundance of dishes, a variety of snack tables, a love for eating bread, pancakes, pies, cereals, the originality of the first liquid cold and hot dishes, a variety of fish and mushroom tables, the widespread use of pickles from vegetables and mushrooms, an abundance of a festive and sweet table with its jams, cookies, gingerbread, Easter cakes, etc.
Some features of Russian cuisine should be said in more detail. Even at the end of the XVIII century. Russian historian I. Boltin noted the characteristic features of the Russian table, including not only the prosperous. In the countryside, four times of food were accepted, and in the summer at work time - five: breakfast, or interception, afternoon tea, earlier than lunch, or at noon sharp, lunch, dinner and paupin. These vyti, adopted in Central and Northern Russia, were also preserved in Southern Russia, but with different names. There at 6-7 o'clock in the morning they ate, at 11-12 they dined, at 14-15 they had an afternoon snack, at 18-19 they ate in the evening, and at 22-23 they had supper. With the development of capitalism, the working people in the cities began to eat at first three, and then only two times a day: breakfast at dawn, lunch or dinner when they came home. At work, they only had an afternoon snack, that is, they ate cold food. Gradually, any full meal, a full table with hot brew, began to be called lunch, sometimes regardless of the time of day.
Bread played an important role at the Russian table. For shchi or other first liquid dish in the village, they usually ate from half a kilo to a kilogram of black rye bread. White bread, wheat, was not actually distributed in Russia until the beginning of the 20th century. It was eaten occasionally and mostly by the wealthy segments of the population in the cities, and among the people they looked at it as a festive meal. Therefore, white bread, called a bun in some parts of the country (5), was not baked in bakeries, like black bread, but in special bakeries and sweetened slightly. Local varieties of white bread were Moscow saiki and kalachi, Smolensk pretzels, Valdai bagels, etc. Black bread differed not by the place of manufacture, but only by the type of baking and the type of flour - baked, custard, hearth, peeled, etc.
From the 20th century came into use and others flour products from white, wheat, flour, previously not characteristic of Russian cuisine - vermicelli, pasta, while the use of pies, pancakes and cereals has decreased. In connection with the spread of white bread in everyday life, tea drinking with it sometimes began to replace breakfast and dinner.
The first liquid dishes, called from the end of the 18th century, retained unchanged importance in Russian cuisine. soups. Soups have always played a dominant role on the Russian table. No wonder the spoon was the main cutlery. It appeared with us earlier than the fork by almost 400 years. "A fork is like a hook, and a spoon is like a net," said a popular proverb.
The assortment of national Russian soups - cabbage soup, mash, stew, fish soup, pickles, saltwort, botviny, okroshka, prisons - continued to grow in the 18th-20th centuries. various types of Western European soups like broths, mashed soups, various dressing soups with meat and cereals, which took root well thanks to the love of the Russian people for hot liquid brew. In the same way, many soups of the peoples of our country have received a place on the modern Russian table, for example, Ukrainian borscht and kulesh, Belarusian beetroot soups and soups with dumplings. Many soups, especially vegetable and vegetable-cereal soups, were obtained from liquefied slurry-zaspitsa (i.e. slurry with vegetable filling) or are the fruits of restaurant cuisine. However, it is not they, despite their diversity, but the old, primordially Russian soups like cabbage soup and fish soup that still determine the originality of the Russian table.
To a lesser extent than soups, fish dishes have retained their original significance on the Russian table. Some classic Russian fish dishes, like telnoye, have fallen into disuse. On the other hand, they are delicious and easy to make. They can be prepared from sea fish, which, by the way, was used in Russian cuisine in the old days, especially in Northern Russia, in Russian Pomorie. The inhabitants of these breadless regions in those days have long been accustomed to cod, halibut, haddock, capelin, navaga. "Without fish is worse than without food," the Pomors used to say then.
Known in Russian cuisine are steam, boiled, calf fish, that is, made in a special way from one fillet, without bones, fried, mended (filled with porridge or mushrooms), stewed, aspic, baked in scales, baked in a pan in sour cream , salted (salted), dried and dried (sushchik). In the Pechora and Perm Territories, fish was also fermented (sour fish), and in Western Siberia they ate stroganina - frozen raw fish. Only the method of smoking fish was not widespread, which was developed mainly only in the last 70-80 years, i.e. since the beginning of the 20th century.
Characteristic of the old Russian cuisine was the widespread use of spices in a fairly large assortment. However, the decline in the role of fish, mushroom and game dishes, as well as the introduction of a number of dishes into the menu German cuisine affected the reduction in the proportion of spices used in Russian cuisine.
In addition, due to the high cost, many spices, as well as vinegar and salt, have been sold since the 17th century. people began to use re in the process of cooking, and put it on the table and use it already during meals, depending on the desire of everyone. This custom gave rise to later assert that Russian cuisine allegedly did not use spices. At the same time, they referred to the well-known work of G. Kotoshikhin about Russia in the 17th century, where he wrote: "There is a custom to cook without seasonings, without pepper and indigo, lightly salted and without vinegar." Meanwhile, the same G. Kotoshikhin further explained: "And as soon as the nets begin, and in which there is little vinegar and salt and pepper, they add them to the table" (6). Since those distant times, the custom has remained to put salt in a salt shaker, pepper in a pepper shaker, mustard and vinegar in separate jars while eating on the table. As a result, the skills of cooking with spices were not developed in the folk cuisine, while in the cuisine of the ruling classes, spices continued to be used in the cooking process. But Russian cuisine knew spices and seasonings even at the time of its formation, they were skillfully combined with fish, mushrooms, game, pies, soups, gingerbread, Easter and Easter cakes, and they were used carefully, but nevertheless constantly and without fail. And this circumstance should not be forgotten and overlooked when speaking about the peculiarities of Russian cuisine.
Finally, in conclusion, it is necessary to dwell on some technological processes inherent in Russian cuisine.
Over a long period of development of the Russian national cuisine the process of cooking was reduced to cooking or baking products in a Russian oven, and these operations were necessarily carried out separately. What was intended for boiling was boiled from beginning to end, what was intended for baking was only baked. Thus, Russian folk cuisine did not know what combined or even different, combined or double heat treatment was. The heat treatment of food consisted in heating with the heat of a Russian stove, strong or weak, in three degrees - "before bread", "after bread", "in the free spirit" - but always without contact with fire and either with a constant temperature kept at the same level, or with a falling, decreasing temperature as the oven gradually cools down, but never with an increasing temperature, as in stovetop cooking. That is why the dishes always turned out not even boiled, but rather stewed or half-stewed, half-stewed, which is why they acquired a very special taste. Not without reason, many dishes of old Russian cuisine do not make the proper impression when they are cooked in other temperature conditions.
Does this mean that it is necessary to restore the Russian stove in order to get modern conditions real dishes of Russian cuisine? Far from it. Instead, it is enough to simulate the thermal regime of falling temperature created by it. Such imitation is possible under modern conditions.
However, we should not forget that the Russian stove had not only a positive effect on Russian cuisine, but to a certain extent also a negative one - it did not stimulate the development of rational technological methods.
The introduction of plate cooking led to the need to borrow a number of new technological methods and, along with them, dishes from Western European cuisine, as well as to the reform of dishes of old Russian cuisine, their refining and development, and adaptation to new technology. This trend has proven to be fruitful. It helped save many dishes of Russian cuisine from oblivion.
Speaking of Russian cuisine, we have so far emphasized its features and characteristics, considered the history of its development and its content as a whole. Meanwhile, one should keep in mind the pronounced regional differences in it, explained mainly by the diversity of natural zones and the related dissimilarity of plant and animal products, the different influences of neighboring peoples, as well as the diversity of the social structure of the population in the past. That is why the cuisines of Muscovites and Pomors, Don Cossacks and Siberians are very different. While in the North they eat venison, fresh and salted sea fish, rye pies, dezhni with cottage cheese and a lot of mushrooms, in the Don they roast and stew steppe game, eat a lot of fruits and vegetables, drink grape wine and cook pies with chicken meat. If the food of the Pomors is similar to the Scandinavian, Finnish, Karelian and Lappish (Sami), then the cuisine of the Don Cossacks was significantly influenced by Turkish, Nogai cuisines, and the Russian population in the Urals or Siberia follows the Tatar and Udmurt culinary traditions.
Regional features of a different plan have long been also inherent in the cuisines of the old Russian regions of Central Russia. These features are due to the medieval rivalry between Novgorod and Pskov, Tver and Moscow, Vladimir and Yaroslavl, Kaluga and Smolensk, Ryazan and Nizhny Novgorod. Moreover, they manifested themselves in the field of cuisine not in major dissimilarities, such as differences in cooking technology or in the availability of their own dishes in each region, as was the case, for example, in Siberia and the Urals, but in differences precisely between the same dishes, in differences are often even insignificant, but nevertheless quite persistent. A striking example of this is at least such common Russian dishes as fish soup, pancakes, pies, cereals and gingerbread: they were made throughout European Russia, but each region had its favorite types of these dishes, its own minor differences in their recipes, its own appearance, their methods of serving to the table, etc.
We owe this, if I may say so, "small regionality" to the emergence, development and existence so far, for example, of different types of gingerbread - Tula, Vyazma, Voronezh, Gorodetsky, Moscow, etc.
Regional differences, both large and small, naturally enriched Russian cuisine even more and diversified it. And at the same time, all of them did not change its basic character, because in each specific case, the above-mentioned common features, which together distinguish the national Russian cuisine throughout Russia from the Baltic to the Pacific Ocean, attract attention.
SHI RICH (FULL) (Pokhlebkin)
750 g of beef, 500-750 g or 1 half-liter can of sauerkraut, 4-5 dry porcini mushrooms, 0.5 cups of salted mushrooms, 1 carrot, 1 large potato, 1 turnip, 2 onions, 1 celery root and greens, 1 root and parsley, 1 tbsp. a spoonful of dill, 3 bay leaves, 4-5 cloves of garlic, 1 tbsp. a spoonful of butter or ghee, 1 tbsp. a spoonful of cream, 100 g of sour cream, 8 black peppercorns, 1 teaspoon of marjoram or dry angelica (dawn).
1. Put the beef together with the onion and half of the roots (carrots, parsley, celery) in cold water and boil for 2 hours. After 1-1.5 hours after the start of cooking, salt, then strain the broth, discard the roots.
2. Put sauerkraut in a clay pot, pour 0.5 liters of boiling water over it, add butter, close, put in a moderately heated oven. When the cabbage begins to soften, remove it and combine with strained broth and beef.
3. Mushrooms and potatoes cut into 4 parts put in an enameled saucepan, pour 2 cups of cold water and put on fire. When the water boils, remove the mushrooms, cut into strips and again lower into the mushroom broth to cook. After the mushrooms and potatoes are ready, combine with the meat broth.
4. To the combined broths and cabbage, add finely chopped onion and all other roots, cut into strips, and spices (except garlic and dill), salt and cook for 20 minutes. Then remove from heat, season with dill and garlic and let it brew for about 15 minutes, wrapped in something warm. Before serving, season with coarsely chopped salted mushrooms and sour cream directly in the plates.
3. SHANOY SPIRIT
What is the symbol of the Russian feast? Vodka? Gefilte fish? Fight? Of course not. There is only one dish without which Russian cuisine is unthinkable, like an emigre newspaper without the Kremlin elders. This is cabbage soup. They contain our culture and history. It is not for nothing that cabbage soup is respectfully called not on “you”, but on “them”, in the plural.
During the first thousand years of Russian history, cabbage soup was the main, and often the only dish on the Russian peasant table. Then cabbage soup and peasants fell into decline. Gradually, this dish sank to the level of a poor stew and, as such, pretty much compromised Russian cuisine. If the house smells of cabbage soup, it means that uncultured, backward people live here. And once the schany spirit denoted the Russian version of homeliness and comfort. “Here is the Russian spirit! It smells of cabbage soup here! ”- so the great poet wrote.
Of course, to enjoy the soup, it is not necessary to wear a kosovorotka and bast shoes. It is enough to cook these cabbage soup correctly. Which is not easy, but exciting.
Put the marrow bones and a good piece of beef into the pan (by no means pork - this will be an extraneous Ukrainian influence, which is equally disgusting to us as Russians and as Jews). Fill with water and cook until half cooked. Put the squeezed sauerkraut in a pot, pour boiling water over it and season with two tablespoons butter. Put the covered pot in the oven on low heat and keep it there until the cabbage is soft. This will give the cabbage soup a stewed taste, which can otherwise only be achieved in a Russian oven. Since even the president does not have a Russian stove in America, the operation with cabbage is inevitable. Separately, boil two or three dry mushrooms along with a cut potato.
Now you need to combine all the ingredients (cabbage, mushrooms and potatoes along with the water in which they were boiled) and put finely chopped onions, carrots, turnips, parsley root and greens, celery root and greens, a few peas of black pepper (crushed), two or three bay leaves, a teaspoon of marjoram, salt and let it boil for about 20 minutes. Then remove from heat, season with garlic and dill and put the pan in a heated oven for half an hour.
Before serving, it’s good to put coarsely chopped salted mushrooms in the cabbage soup (we don’t know where you can get them) and be sure to add the sour cream made from a mixture of sour cream and cream to the plate. Aesthetes can add finely chopped ham to the soup along with the roots, but this is from the evil one.
There is cabbage soup with a huge amount of fresh black bread, cut into slices as thick as a hand. No second meal is prepared on this day. God bless this first one. The big problem is the consistency of cabbage soup. They should be very thick: for the spoon to stand. But this recommendation, like others like it - "salt to taste, cook until cooked" - does not help the cook much. On the other hand, a reasonable person must have innate intuition and a sense of proportion. And there is no need for another to cook cabbage soup. He will manage in cooking - a hamburger, in art - a TV, in sports - a throw-in fool.
Section: William Vasilievich Pokhlebkin
"NATIONAL CUISINES OF OUR PEOPLES"
6th page of the section
Russian kitchen
HOT SOUPS
Shchi has been the main liquid hot dish on the Russian table for over a millennium. It has been steadily preserved in different eras, although tastes have changed, and has never known social barriers; it was used by all segments of the population. Of course, cabbage soup was not the same for everyone: some, more complete in composition, were called “rich”, others were said to be “empty”, since they were sometimes cooked from one cabbage and onion.
However, with all the numerous variations from “rich” to “empty” and with all regional (regional) varieties of cabbage soup; the traditional way of preparing them and the taste and aroma associated with it have always been preserved.
Of great importance for creating a special, unique taste of cabbage soup was the fact that they were cooked and then languished (infused) in a Russian oven. The aroma of cabbage soup, indestructible by anything - “the spirit of the soup” - has always stood in a Russian hut. Russian sayings were associated with the meaning of cabbage soup in everyday life: “Schi is the head of everything”, “Schi and porridge is our food”, etc.
The amazing longevity of cabbage soup can be explained, perhaps, by their inedibility. Shchi does not bother with frequent use. They can be eaten almost daily at any time of the year.
Shchi in their most complete version consists of six main components - cabbage (or the leading vegetable mass replacing it), meat (or, in very rare cases, fish, mushrooms - dried and salted), roots (carrots, parsley root), spicy dressing (onion, celery, garlic, dill, pepper, bay leaf) and sour dressing (sour cream, apples, cabbage pickle). Of these six components, the first and last, i.e., the vegetable leading mass and the sour dressing, are indispensable and absolutely indispensable. The simplest cabbage soup can consist only of them, while continuing to be cabbage soup.
As for the leading vegetable mass in cabbage soup, most often it is cabbage - fresh or sauerkraut. But this does not mean at all that shchi is soup with cabbage. A sign of cabbage soup is acid, most often created by sauerkraut brine (either as part of cabbage or in its pure form) or, instead, by sorrel (green cabbage soup), a boil of green, wild or Antonov apples, salted mushrooms, and also sour cream (in soup from fresh cabbage). That is why cabbage can be replaced in soups with various green, sour or neutral masses (sorrel, goutweed, nettle, cow parsnip - in the so-called green soups), as well as a neutral vegetable mass that absorbs acid well (turnip or radish - in the so-called burdock soups). ).
The technology for preparing all types of cabbage soup is the same. First, meat or mushrooms are boiled separately with roots and onions. Then cabbage or its substitutes and acid are added to the finished broth. If sauerkraut is used for cabbage soup, then it is boiled separately from the meat broth and combined with it after it is ready. In both cases, only after boiling the vegetable mass to the required softness, salt and spicy dressing are added. Sour cream is seasoned with ready-made cabbage soup, most often during their serving.
Initially, flour dressing was also introduced into cabbage soup (together with cabbage) in order to make the soup broth more dense. This was customary in the western and southern regions of Russia.
However, such a dressing worsens the taste of cabbage soup, coarsens their aroma. Therefore, with the advent of potatoes, in order to starch the broth, one or two potatoes began to be added to the cabbage soup - in its entirety, before laying the cabbage and the sour base. Moreover, often the potatoes are then removed from the cabbage soup, since it hardens from acid. The thickening of the consistency of the broth in lean and green cabbage soup is also facilitated by the addition of a small amount of cereal, usually buckwheat (1 tablespoon for the entire pan), which is completely boiled.
The simpler the vegetable composition of cabbage soup, the leaner they are, the more skill is required for their preparation. Real cabbage soup is inconceivable without spicy dressing, which plays a significant role in creating the “sweet spirit”. First of all, the introduction of onion into cabbage soup is of great importance. The best way is to double bookmark it: the first time - a whole onion along with meat, roots and mushrooms (then this onion is taken out) and the second time - finely chopped onions (chopped) along with cabbage. At the same time, onion overcooked separately in oil should never be added to cabbage soup - in this form it is not characteristic of real cabbage soup.
In the same way, another spicy dressing - parsley and celery - is added twice to the cabbage soup: the first time - with a root, which is then taken out along with the onion, the second time - at the end of cooking, in the form of greens. The remaining spices - bay leaf, black pepper with crushed peas, dill and garlic are added as follows: the first two types - 15 minutes before readiness, the second two - along with parsley at the end of cooking.
After that, the cabbage soup must necessarily stand under the lid, simmer to infuse, for at least 10-15 minutes. It is at this time that the cabbage soup “reaches its real taste”: the cabbage becomes soft, the acid and aroma of spices are transferred to the vegetables. Therefore, first they left the cabbage soup to simmer and languish after cooking in the light spirit of the Russian oven, where they did not cool down, or they set it aside on the edge of the stove, where the heat was preserved, but the boiling stopped. Especially need this cabbage soup from sauerkraut. It is good to put them in a slightly heated oven for 10-15 minutes, or even more.
Sometimes the infusion of cabbage soup can last several hours (from 12 to 24), which is why they acquire a better and more distinctive taste. Such cabbage soup is called diurnal, they are prepared ahead of time, in a day.
Finally, attention should be paid to two more circumstances that affect the quality of cabbage soup - this is the choice of meat and whitening or whitening.
For cabbage soup there is beef, mostly fatty - brisket, thin and thick edge, rump. To create a special smell, you can add a small amount of ham to beef - a tenth - eighth (and in the south of Russia even a third) part of the weight of beef. At the same time, beef in cabbage soup is always boiled in a whole piece, and the ham is chopped. All meat components are subjected to grinding only in prefabricated cabbage soup.
Soup from one pork, found mainly in the regions of Russia bordering Ukraine, is not typical of Russian cuisine. The same can be said about cabbage soup with fish instead of meat found in certain regions of Russia. For such cabbage soup, a special selection of fish (salted red - beluga and sturgeon, combined with river fish - perch, crucian carp and tench) and their separate heat treatment were once required. A different way of cooking cabbage soup with fish, and with its other varieties, gives a not so tasty dish, which, therefore, has not gained distribution.
As for whitening, good cabbage soup cannot do without it. The role of whitening is usually performed by sour cream, which is also an acidifier. Sometimes sour cream is replaced with curdled milk or just milk. In rich cabbage soup from sauerkraut, a mixture of sour cream and cream in a 4: 1 ratio serves as a protein. This is a very tasty snack.
A few words about the consistency of cabbage soup. Shchi of all types can be thick or liquid, depending on the ratio of water and the weight of the enclosed products. Once upon a time, thick cabbage soup was considered ideal, in which “a spoon stands”, or “a cabbage soup with a slide”, that is, when a piece of meat rises above the surface of liquid and thick poured into a plate.
Our recipes are designed for cabbage soup of more than medium density; this means that the amount of liquid per serving should not exceed 350 g. Therefore, cold water should be poured no more than 2 liters per 4 servings, and preferably 1.5 liters, so that the finished broth is 1.25 1 liter (after boiling). It should be cooked for 2 hours. Spices are added to the cabbage soup 5-10 minutes before readiness.
Shchi is usually eaten with black, rye bread.
SHI RICH (FULL)
:
750 g of beef, 500-750 g or 1 half-liter can of sauerkraut, 4-5 dry porcini mushrooms, 0.5 cups of salted mushrooms, 1 carrot, 1 large potato, 1 turnip, 2 onions, 1 celery root and greens, 1 root and parsley, 1 tbsp. a spoonful of dill, 3 bay leaves, 4-5 cloves of garlic, 1 tbsp. a spoonful of butter or ghee, 1 tbsp. a spoonful of cream, 100 g of sour cream, 8 black peppercorns, 1 teaspoon of marjoram or dry angelica (dawn).
1. Put the beef together with the onion and half of the roots (carrots, parsley, celery) in cold water and boil for 2 hours. After 1-1.5 hours after the start of cooking, salt, then strain the broth, discard the roots.
2. Put sauerkraut in a clay pot, pour 0.5 liters of boiling water over it, add butter, close, put in a moderately heated oven. When the cabbage begins to soften, remove it and combine with strained broth and beef.
3. Mushrooms and potatoes cut into 4 parts put in an enameled saucepan, pour 2 cups of cold water and put on fire. When the water boils, remove the mushrooms, cut into strips and again lower into the mushroom broth to cook. After the mushrooms and potatoes are ready, combine with the meat broth.
4. To the combined broths and cabbage, add finely chopped onion and all other roots, cut into strips, and spices (except garlic and dill), salt and cook for 20 minutes. Then remove from heat, season with dill and garlic and let it brew for about 15 minutes, wrapped in something warm. Before serving, season with coarsely chopped salted mushrooms and sour cream directly in the plates.
Cabbage soup
:
250 g beef, 200 g lamb, 100 g ham, 100 g chicken, 100 g duck or goose, 500-700 g sauerkraut, 2 onions, 1 carrot, 1 turnip, 1 parsley, 1 tbsp. a spoonful of dill, 1 teaspoon of marjoram, 3 bay leaves, 4 cloves of garlic, 10 black peppercorns, 100 g of sour cream.
Cook according to the previous recipe, i.e., the meat or cabbage parts are first cooked separately, then, having brought the meat to half-cookedness, they are combined. Each type of meat is cut into 4 pieces.
Spices are laid 10 minutes before the cabbage soup is ready.
CHI LENTENING
:
500-750 g sauerkraut, 5-6 dry porcini mushrooms, 1 tbsp. a spoonful of buckwheat, 2 onions, 1 potato, 1 carrot, 1 turnip or swede, 1 parsley, 1 tbsp. a spoonful of dill, 3 bay leaves, 4 garlic cloves, 8 black peppercorns, 100 g sour cream, 1-2 tbsp. tablespoons of poppy, sunflower or olive oil.
1. Pour 0.5 liters of boiling water over sauerkraut and place in a clay pot in the oven for 20-30 minutes. Then pour the broth into a separate enameled or faience bowl, salt the cabbage, mix with finely chopped onions, moisten with prepared flavored (7) vegetable oil and grind in an enameled bowl with a wooden spoon so as to completely rub the oil. Then reconnect with the broth and continue to cook on the stove.
- (7) For flavoring, the oil is heated (but not fried) in a frying pan or saucepan and coriander, anise, fennel, dill or celery, parsley seeds are added to it.
SHI SIMPLE MEAT
:
500 g beef shank, 100 g ham, 500-750 g sauerkraut, 100 g sour cream, 1 carrot, 1 parsley, 2 onions, 1-2 potatoes, 3 bay leaves, 4 garlic cloves, 1 tbsp. a spoonful of dill, 8 peas of black pepper.
Pour boiling water over the beef and ham, add the onion, potatoes and part of the roots (whole), cook for 1.5 hours until the meat is half cooked. Then lay the cabbage grated with salt and chopped onions, the rest of the roots, cut into strips, and continue to cook for another 1 hour.
Shchi
Cook in the same way as simple meat cabbage soup, but without potatoes. Spice lay partially - without parsley, dill and garlic. After cooking, wrap the cabbage soup in warm, and after 3-4 hours put it in the cold for one day.
The next day, reheat, add spicy herbs and garlic, sour cream.
SCHIE LAZY (OR RAHMANNY (8))
- (8) Sometimes the name "Rakhmanov's" is used incorrectly. In fact, the word "rakhmanny" means "lazy, rustic, slow" (in Old Russian). In the old days, rahman cabbage soup was cooked from fresh greens (snot) or cabbage, sometimes with fish, then any soup prepared hastily from non-acidic green ingredients began to be called rahman soup from the late 19th - early 20th centuries. they began to be called lazy and cook only from fresh cabbage.
:
500 g beef brisket (but the vegetarian version is more common), 750 g fresh cabbage (head), 3 onions, 1 carrot, 1 potato (halved), 1 parsley (root and herbs), 1 celery (root and herbs), 2 tbsp . tablespoons of dill, 1 teaspoon of marjoram, 2 bay leaves, 10 black peppercorns, 8 cloves of garlic, 200 g of sour cream, 1 tomato.
1. Cook meat broth, as usual for cabbage soup, with onions and roots, potatoes for 2 hours, strain.
2. Peel the head of cabbage from the outer leaves, cut out the stalk without disturbing the integrity of the head, put it in cold, slightly salted water for 30 minutes. Then take out, scald with boiling water and cut into large squares (2x2 cm).
3. Put the prepared cabbage, chopped onion, tomato cut into 4 parts and the remaining roots cut into strips in the prepared meat broth, salt and continue to cook until the cabbage and roots are cooked over moderate heat. Season with spices and sour cream.
SHI SOUR FROM FRESH CABBAGE
:
500-750 g beef brisket, 500-750 g fresh cabbage (small head or half head), 6-8 small green unripe apples of any variety, 2 onions, 0.5 turnips, 2 tbsp. tablespoons of dill, 3 bay leaves, 8 black peppercorns, 100 g of sour cream.
Boil the usual meat broth for cabbage soup (see previous recipes).
When the meat is almost ready, put the cabbage, cut into squares (1x1 cm), finely chopped onion, roots, after 15 minutes of cooking, add chopped apples, and after another 5 minutes - spicy herbs and cook until the apples are completely boiled .
Apples can also be boiled separately in an enameled saucepan and pour this broth (1 cup) into the already almost ready cabbage soup.
These cabbage soup can be cooked without meat.
CHI GRAY (SEEDLING)
:
500 g beef, 100 g ham, 750 g cabbage seedlings, 1 cup nettle (scalded), 2 hard-boiled eggs, 2 onions, 1 parsley, 2 tbsp. spoons of dill, 6 peas of black pepper, 4 peas of allspice, 100 g of sour cream, 0.5 tsp of citric acid.
1. Prepare meat broth for cabbage soup (see above).
2. Leaves of seedlings free from roots and stems, finely chopped and then scalded with steep salty boiling water, close and leave in it for 10-15 minutes. Then recline and fall asleep in the meat broth.
3. Rinse nettles with cold water, pour over boiling water, put in a colander and quickly, preventing it from secreting juice, cut finely and pour into meat broth.
4. Continue cooking cabbage soup after laying cabbage and nettle together with spices for another 10-15 minutes. Then remove from heat, season with dill, garlic, citric acid, let it brew. Serve with sour cream and hard-boiled egg (half per serving).
SHI GREEN
:
500 g beef brisket, 0.75-liter can of sorrel, 2 onions, 1 carrot, 1 parsley, 1 celery, 1 tbsp. a spoonful of dill, 10 black peppercorns, 3 bay leaves, 4 cloves of garlic, 2 hard-boiled eggs, 100 g of sour cream.
1. Boil the meat broth, as indicated in the previous recipes.
2. Rinse the sorrel thoroughly in cold water, free from stems, finely chop and put in ready-boiling meat broth. At the same time, add finely chopped onion, chopped roots, spices, except for garlic and dill, and cook for 10-15 minutes until the sorrel darkens. Add garlic and dill 2 minutes before the end of cooking. When serving, season with sour cream and finely chopped eggs.
Note. Shchi greens can be cooked without meat. In this case, sorrel, roots and spices are added to 1.25 liters of boiling salted onion broth, into which another 1 tbsp. a spoonful of rice and 1 tbsp. a spoonful of buckwheat. Boil 15 min.
CHI NETTLE
:
4 cups scalded nettles, 2 tbsp. spoons of buckwheat (unground), 1 tbsp. spoon of rice, 1 potato, 2 eggs, 0.5 teaspoon of citric acid, 1 parsley, 1 celery, 1 tbsp. a spoonful of dill, 8 black peppercorns, 100 g sour cream, 1.25 liters of water.
1. Put spicy vegetables, finely chopped onions, cereals into boiling salted water or ready-made meat broth and boil for 10-12 minutes.
2. Then put the nettle prepared as follows. Leaves of young nettle (upper three or four leaves) free from stalks, rinse thoroughly several times in cold water, scald with boiling water, quickly discard in a colander, preventing the nettle from letting juice out, and immediately cut into small pieces. Boil nettles in broth for 10-12 minutes.
3. Remove cabbage soup from heat, season with garlic, dill, citric acid, let it brew.
BUCK SHI
:
500 g beef brisket, 100 g ham, 500 g turnip, 1 swede, 1-1.5 cups cabbage pickle, 2 onions, 1 parsley, 8 black peppercorns, 1 teaspoon marjoram, 4 garlic cloves, 2 tbsp. spoons of dill, 100 g of sour cream.
Prepared like simple meat soup. Turnips and rutabaga, cut into strips, are placed in ready-made meat broth along with cabbage pickle and boiled until the vegetables are soft.
Chowders are the first hot dishes, which are essentially strong vegetable broths. Unlike soups and cabbage soups made with meat broths, chowders are light soups based on water and vegetables (9).- (9) Therefore, in principle, the restaurant name of the first course, which is sometimes found incorrectly, is meat (or chicken) stew.
Never use beans, beets, sauerkraut in stews.
The composition of the stew necessarily includes onions and spices, the selection of which is not the same for each type of stew. Spicy parsley, dill and celery, as well as garlic, are the most common ingredients.
Salt stews should be carefully and differently depending on the main vegetable component: potato - at the beginning of cooking, lentil - after the end of cooking, the rest - in the process of cooking.
A characteristic feature of the stew cooking technology is that the vegetables are not placed in cold water, but necessarily in boiling water (you can also dissolve finely chopped onions in it).
With seeming lightness and speed (they are boiled for about 20-30 minutes), cooking stews requires special attention and skills, more care when processing vegetables.
It is necessary to preserve and bring to the table a light aroma of stew, the smell of which can be damaged by insufficiently washed or poorly peeled vegetables. You need to know the order of laying and cooking time of vegetables and spices. The stew cannot be digested, because then all the flavor will evaporate, and the broth will become cloudy. Real stews are always transparent, and each has its own color. Unlike the actual soups, they are prepared without fats, without oil, like pure vegetable broths. Subsequent whitening with sour cream is allowed, and more often with cream. But the whitening, and even more so the addition of butter, even butter, still changes the taste of the stew.
They eat stews with black rye bread, preferably quite fresh, and immediately after their preparation, hot.
Leaving the stew for another day and reheating is not recommended.
ONION POTSTOCK
:
1.25 liters of water, 4-6 onions, 1 leek, 1 parsley, 1 celery, 1 tbsp. a spoonful of dill, 4-6 black peppercorns, 1 teaspoon of salt.
Cut the roots into strips, put in boiling water. Onion and finely chop the leek (but not rings), rub with salt in a porcelain bowl and pour into boiling broth. Put pepper.
When the onion blossoms and the broth turns into green color, salt, add chopped spicy greens and after 3 minutes remove from heat. Close, let stand for 5 minutes.
POTATO POTATO SOFTWARE
:
1.5 liters of water, 5-6 potatoes, 1 onion, 0.5 heads of garlic, 3 bay leaves, 1 tbsp. dill spoon, 1 tbsp. a spoonful of parsley, 6-8 black peppercorns.
Put chopped onions, diced potatoes in salted boiling water and cook until the potatoes are ready. Add spices and spicy greens, respectively, 5-7 and 2 minutes before readiness.
COTTAGE TURP (REPNITSA)
:
1.5 liters of water, 5-6 turnips, 1 small swede, 1 onion, 2 Jamaican (allspice) peppercorns, 2 clove buds, 4 black peppercorns, 2 bay leaves, 1 tbsp. parsley spoon, 1 tbsp. a spoonful of dill, 4 cloves of garlic.
Cook the same way you would a potato stew. Add spices 10 minutes before, and spicy herbs 2-3 minutes before readiness.
Lentil chowder
:
1.5-1.75 liters of water, 1 glass of lentils, 1 onion, 1 carrot, 1 parsley, 3 bay leaves, 6 black peppercorns, 0.5 heads of garlic, 1 tbsp. a spoonful of savory greens.
Soak lentils overnight in cold water. Before cooking, rinse again, pour cold water and put on moderate heat. When it boils, add chopped roots and cook until the lentils are completely boiled (1.25-1 l of liquid should remain).
Then add onion and other spices, except garlic and savory, salt and cook on very low heat for another 10-12 minutes, then season with garlic and savory, remove from heat and let it brew for 5-8 minutes.
However, already from the 15th century, fish is increasingly being made from fish, which, better than other products, made it possible to create a dish that is fundamentally different from other liquid dishes of the Russian table. The ear turned into a dish fast food, with a clear liquid similar to broth, so it cannot be seasoned, like fish soup, with butter, cereals, flour, overcooked onions, etc.
Over the centuries, completely certain rules for cooking fish soup have developed, regarding the selection of fish varieties, dishes, the quantity and composition of vegetables and spices, the order of laying and cooking time.
So, the ear should be boiled in non-oxidizing dishes (enamelled, earthenware). The classic Russian fish soup is boiled from those fish that give a transparent fat, are distinguished by stickiness, tenderness and "sweetness". These are pike perch, perch, ruff, whitefish - they make the best, the so-called white ear. They usually add one third of burbot, catfish, tench or ide. In second place in terms of taste - ear from asp, carp, chub, cheese, crucian carp, carp, rudd. The ear of these fish is called black. Finally, fish soup from red fish - sturgeon, beluga, stellate sturgeon, nelma, salmon - is called red fish soup, or amber, when it is especially oily and is made with saffron. In addition to these types of fish soup, classical Russian cuisine knows fish soup ordinary, patronized, sluggish, layered and sweet.
Fish soup is usually cooked not from any one type of fish, but from two at least and from four as a maximum. An exception may be the ear from red fish, which is also boiled from one type of fish. In a special place are regional varieties of fish soup - sterlet soup (sterlet, Volga), smelt fish soup (Chudskaya, Pskovskaya) and sushchik fish soup (10) together with salted saffron milk mushrooms - the so-called Lachskaya (Lazhsky), or Onega.
- (10) Sushchik - small perches, ruffs, smelts dried in a Russian oven.
There is an opinion that good ear cannot be prepared from sea fish. This is not true. Many of the marine fish are well suited for cooking fish soup due to their qualities. These are cod, halibut, macrorus, notothenia, sablefish, vomer, icefish, squama, sea bass. Cod and halibut, for example, were used earlier for cooking Pomor (Arkhangelsk) fish soup.
Usually they try to cook fish soup from freshwater fish immediately after catching it. The fresher the fish, the tastier the ear. This fully applies to marine fish. Therefore, if it is frozen, then for better conservation freshness it should not be thawed before laying in the ear. It is also necessary to choose younger, smaller fish for the fish soup, trying also to take the tail part less prone to spoilage. The combination of low-fat fish (cod, ice, macrorus, vomer) with fatty fish (halibut, sea bass, squama, notothenia) is most successful for fish soup.
A minimum of vegetables is put in the ear - a small amount of potatoes (moreover, not crumbly, sweet varieties), carrots and, of course, onions. If the fish soup is prepared from live fish, then only onions are put in it. If they use fresh, but already dormant fish, then they must put the vegetables. In addition, they bring in a fairly large set of spices: parsley (root and herbs), leek, green onion, dill, black pepper, bay leaf, tarragon, parsnips, and saffron, nutmeg, ginger, anise, fennel are added to some types of fish soup. Usually the assortment of spices depends on the type of fish - the fatter the fish, the more spices are required for fish soup.
It is extremely important to observe the correct cooking mode to create a unique taste and aroma of fish soup. First of all, it is necessary to prepare a broth for the fish soup - a boiling salted vegetable broth, where the fish is lowered for a short time (from 7 to 20 minutes). The main goal of preparing the broth is to create such an environment for the fish in which it would not be completely boiled out, that is, it would remain tasty and juicy.
Previously, for this purpose, small fish, as well as heads and bones, were first completely boiled in the broth, which were then thrown away, and the broth was filtered and clarified with an egg-white line. And only then in this fish broth they boiled pieces of a larger fish or its fillet, intended for eating with fish soup. Later, the compaction of the consistency of the broth began to be achieved by boiling potatoes in it.
This technique is more suitable for cooking fish soup from sea fish.
The duration of cooking fish depends entirely on the type of fish: freshwater fish is cooked for 15-20 minutes (and fish from Siberian rivers 25-30 minutes), sea fish - 8-12 minutes. Digestion of sea fish worsens the quality of fish meat, makes it tough and worsens the taste of the broth itself, which becomes less sweet, less aromatic.
You should also pay attention to the fact that the ear will turn out much tastier if it is cooked without a lid, in an open container and over moderate or low heat.
An indicator of fish soup readiness is a slight lag of fish meat from the bones, and an indicator good quality- transparency of the broth, its delicate aroma, bright whiteness of fish meat. The ear should not have a specific fishy smell, which is often fish soups, during the cooking of which strong boiling of the fish is allowed.
They eat fish soup with brown bread or with fish pie, pies stuffed with vyaziga, sago, rice and eggs, onions or fish (pies). Below are modern recipes for ordinary fish soup - from river and sea fish, as well as old varieties of Russian fish soup: national team, crucian carp, patronized, sweet, cancerous. Differences in their preparation are insignificant, but still there.
UHA PRIVATE (FROM RIVER FISH)
:
1.5 kg of fish, 1.75 liters of water, 2 onions, 0.5 carrots (small), 1 parsley (root and herbs), 1 parsnip root, 2 potatoes, 1 tbsp. a spoonful of dill, 3 bay leaves, 8 black peppercorns, 1 tbsp. a spoonful of tarragon, 2 teaspoons of salt.
Put potatoes cut into quarters, heads and tails of fish, finely chopped onions, chopped carrots and parsley into salted boiling water and cook over low heat for 20 minutes, then remove the foam, if desired - strain, then put the bay leaf, pepper, boil more 5 minutes, increase the heat and lower the cleaned and cut into large pieces (4-5 cm wide) fish into the prepared broth, cook it over moderate heat for 15-17 minutes, not letting it boil too much.
At the end, if necessary, add salt, sprinkle with parsley, dill and tarragon, remove from heat, close the lid and let it brew for 7-8 minutes.
UHA PRIVATE (FROM SEA FISH)
:
1.5 kg fish or 1.25 kg fillet (about 0.5 kg each of cod, halibut, sea bass), 1.75 liters of water, 2 onions, 0.5 carrots, 3 potatoes, 4 bay leaves, 10-12 black peppercorns, 1 leek, 1 parsley, 2 tbsp. spoons of dill, 4-5 stamens of saffron, 2 teaspoons of salt, 4 slices (circles) of lemon.
In salted boiling water, put diced potatoes, chopped carrots and parsley, finely chopped onions, boil for 10-15 minutes over moderate heat until the potatoes are half cooked, then lay all the spices, except for the dill and part of the leek, and after 3 minutes - cut into large pieces of fish and continue to cook for another 8 minutes over moderate heat. Salt if necessary.
A minute before readiness, add dill, leeks.
Let it brew, put a lemon (see previous recipe).
EAR TEAM
The composition of the fish part of the fish soup includes river and red fish in a ratio of 2:1 or 1:1. The cooking procedure is the same as for ordinary fish soup. From spices, in addition to those used in ordinary ear from river fish, you can add saffron and ginger (on the tip of a knife).
EAR GUARDED
Guardian ear can be cooked in two ways.
1. Boil the heads, tails, bones from the butchered fish for 20-30 minutes over moderate heat, strain the broth and boil large pieces of fish fillet in it for 5 minutes. Then take out the fish, dip in an egg beaten with 1 teaspoon of flour, lightly fry (bake - hence “baked”) in a pan with butter and again immerse in boiling fish broth for additional cooking for another 3-5 minutes.
2. Put fish, vegetables, spices in a clay pot, pour boiling water over it, close, put in a heated oven over high heat for 15 minutes. When the ear begins to boil, remove from the oven, add 1 tbsp. a spoonful of butter, pour 1-2 well-beaten eggs on top and put in the oven again for 15 minutes - until the eggs are completely baked (sintered).
EAR CARP
Cook in the same way as ordinary fish soup from river fish (see above), but instead of potatoes, put 2 tbsp. tablespoons of washed rice First, boil the heads of crucians separately, and then strain the broth and put the crucians themselves into it, without cutting them into pieces.
This ear is not salted.
EAR PLASTIC
Cook in the same way as ordinary fish soup, but from salted and dried fish, spread lengthwise.
Initially, such fish must be scalded with boiling water, in which anise or fennel was boiled. After that, it can be put in the ear, but not 1.5 kg, as for an ordinary fish soup, but 1 kg.
EAR SLIGHT
Cook in the same way as ordinary, but from sun-dried small fish or from dry. You can add dried or fresh mushrooms to it.
EAR SWEET
Boil like an ordinary river fish soup, but take twice as many carrots (a whole carrot instead of half) and cut it into small cubes. You should also increase the proportion of parsnips, and as additional spices in the broth in a gauze bag, boil for 5-7 minutes (and then remove) 1 teaspoon of anise or fennel seeds.
EAR CANCER
The fish part of this fish soup includes 2 parts of cancer meat and 1 part of fish meat, preferably pike or other freshwater fish. From this mixture, make a body with the addition of onions, black pepper and 1 tbsp. tablespoons of wheat flour (per 1 kg of fish).
Boil the ear from small fresh river fish, which, after boiling, take out, then strain the broth and dip the body into it, with which to fill the cancerous shells first.
The laying of vegetables and spices is the same as for ordinary fish soup, with the exception of dill, which must be taken twice as much.
A distinctive feature of the calla before was that usually only oily fish, mostly red, was used for it, and caviar was placed in it along with the fish. At present, good kalja can be prepared from sea fish, traditionally used in the Russian North - for example, from halibut, catfish, which are quite fatty and also go well with a salty-sour base.
As a rule, more spices go into Kalya than into ear. Kalya is thicker than fish soup, the broth in it is sharper and denser in consistency, and its quantity is always less than in the ear. Previously, kalya was considered a festive dish.
:
1.5 kg of fish, 1.5-1.75 liters of water, 2 pickles, 1 glass of cucumber pickle, 3-4 potatoes, 0.5 lemons, 2 onions, 1 leek, 1 parsley (root and herbs) , 1 carrot, 10 black peppercorns, 3 bay leaves, 1 tbsp. a spoonful of dill, 5-6 stamens of saffron, 1 tbsp. fresh or 1 teaspoon dry tarragon.
First, cook like fish soup: prepare a vegetable broth (see the description of cooking fish soup), then add separately boiled cucumber pickle into it, add diced pickles, and then lower the fish, cut into large pieces.
Boil from 8 to 20 minutes depending on the type of fish (see the description of cooking fish soup).
Season with spices in the same way and in the same order as the fish soup.
In conclusion, put the dill, part of the leek, tarragon, squeeze the lemon juice into the kalya already removed from the fire and let it brew.
The amount of brine, its concentration and ratio with the rest of the liquid, as well as the combination with other main products of the soup (fish, meat, vegetables and cereals) were, however, so different that they gave rise to various dishes with different names: kali, hangovers, saltwort and, finally, pickles. The latter began to be called moderately sour-salty soups only on a cucumber basis - vegetarian or more often with offal; it was customary to understand only slightly acidic fish soups as kali, and more acidic and more concentrated ones stood out in hangovers and saltworts.
Since the recipe for pickles was formed rather late, they included potatoes and rice, while the boiled beets that were included in the old pickles were subsequently completely excluded.
Modern pickles include pickles, potatoes and other root vegetables of a neutral taste (carrots, turnips, rutabaga), cereals (buckwheat, barley, pearl barley or rice), a large number of spicy vegetables and spicy greens (onions, leeks, celery, parsley, parsnips, dill, tarragon, savory) and some classic spices (bay leaf, allspice and black pepper).
As meat, offal is mainly used in pickles - either only beef or calf kidneys, or all offal (stomach, liver, heart, lungs, neck, legs) from poultry (chicken, turkey, duck and goose).
In the absence of offal, they are replaced with beef meat - usually a curl, or a shank (knuckle).
Grains for pickle are selected in accordance with the meat used in it: pearl barley - in pickle with kidneys and beef, rice - in pickle with chicken and turkey offal, barley - for duck and goose offal, buckwheat and rice - in vegetarian pickle. In the same way, spices are selected differently for different types pickles.
In order for pickles to have a delicate, slightly acidic and slightly salty taste, they must maintain a balance between the salty part (cucumbers) and neutral absorbers (cereals, potatoes, root crops - 0.5 cups per 1.5 liters of soup). Therefore, pure brine is rarely added to pickles and in small doses - if the cucumbers themselves are not salty enough. In this case, the brine is pre-boiled before pouring into the broth.
Like most Russian soups, pickles are whitened with sour cream.
MEAT PICKLE
:
250-300 g of kidneys, 3 pickles, 0.5 cups of cucumber pickle, 2-3 potatoes, 1 carrot, 1 onion, 2 tbsp. spoons of pearl barley, 1 tbsp. a spoonful of dill, 1 parsley (root and herbs), 1 celery (root and herbs), 3 bay leaves, 6 black peppercorns, 2 Jamaican (allspice) peppercorns, 100 g sour cream.
Kidney preparation. Cut the kidneys from films and fat, soak in water for 6-8 hours, changing the water, boil for 20-30 minutes in boiling water, remove, cut into small slices.
Cereal preparation. Rinse the grits with cold water, pour boiling water in a saucepan and put to steam for 30-45 minutes, changing the boiling water.
Cucumber preparation. Cut the skin from the cucumbers, pour 1-1.5 cups of boiling water over it and simmer for 10-15 minutes on low heat, then discard the boiled skin, and lower the pulp of the cucumbers cut lengthwise into 4 parts into the brine, and then across into small slices, simmer for another 10 min.
Pickle brew. Prepared kidneys put in 1.5 liters of boiling water, boil for about 30 minutes, add chopped roots (carrots, parsley, celery), prepared cereals, after 10-15 minutes - potatoes, finely chopped onions and cook until potatoes are cooked over moderate heat. Then add the prepared cucumbers, try to see if the broth is salty enough, add brine or salt if necessary, add spices and continue cooking for another 10-15 minutes, after which, making sure that the kidneys are ready, season with spicy herbs and cook for another 3 minutes.
Top with sour cream when serving.
CHICKEN PICKLE
:
Offal from 2 chickens, 4 pickles, 1 carrot, 1 turnip, 3 tbsp. spoons of rice, 1 onion, 1 leek, 1 parsley (root and herbs), 2 tbsp. spoons of dill, 1 tbsp. tarragon spoon, 1 tbsp. a spoonful of savory greens, 8 black peppercorns, 2 bay leaves, 2 cloves of garlic, 25-30 g of butter.
In 1.5 liters of boiling water, put thoroughly washed and cut into small pieces of chicken offal and cook for about 1 hour, then season with roots, rice washed several times and cook until it is half cooked, removing the foam.
Then season with finely chopped onion and leek, as well as pepper, bay leaf and cook until rice is ready, add prepared cucumbers (see recipe above), cook for another 5-7 minutes, add spicy greens and cook for 3 minutes, then remove from heat and season with garlic, crushed with oil and salt.
VEGETABLE PICKLE
:
3-4 pickles, 1 potato, 1 carrot, 1 turnip, 3 tbsp. spoons of buckwheat or rice groats, 1 parsnip (root and herbs), 2 onions, 1 leek, 1 parsley, 1 celery (root and herbs), 8 black peppercorns, 2 bay leaves, 1 tbsp. a spoonful of dill, 0.5 tbsp. tablespoons of tarragon, 25 g butter, 100 g sour cream.
Boil vegetables and cereals in 1.5 liters of boiling water, season with separately prepared cucumbers (see the Meat Pickle recipe) and spicy herbs.
Solyanka - thick spicy soups, combining the components of cabbage soup (cabbage, sour cream) and pickles (pickles, cucumber pickle), with a significantly enhanced sour-salty-spicy base as a result of the addition of seasonings such as olives, capers, tomatoes, lemon, lemon juice, kvass, salted or pickled mushrooms.Sometimes vinegar is also added to hodgepodges, but this coarsens their taste, such a seasoning indicates poor cuisine. There are three types of hodgepodges: meat, fish (with a different set of various kinds meat, poultry and fish) and simple (or mushroom). The first two types are prepared respectively in strong meat and fish broth, the latter - in mushroom or vegetable broth. These broths are diluted with cucumber pickle.
Solyanka-soups, in contrast to the second-course hodgepodges similar to them, which do not have liquid and are baked in pans, are called liquid hodgepodges. However, there is little liquid in liquid hodgepodges (1/3 less than in soups of other types), and this liquid is concentrated and spicy. The liquid and thick parts of the hodgepodge are prepared completely separately and combined 5-10-15 minutes before serving and not so much for cooking, but for warming up and creating aroma.
MEAT SOLYANKA
:
1.25 liters of meat or bone strong broth, 1-2 cups of cucumber pickle, 200 g boiled beef, 200 g roasted beef or veal, 100 g ham, 100 g sausages, 1/4 chicken, 2 pickles, 200-250 g fresh cabbage (about 1/4 of a small head), 2 tomatoes, 100 g sour cream, 12 olives, 1-1.5 cups salted mushrooms, 1-2 tbsp. spoons of capers, 1 onion, 1 tbsp. parsley spoon, 1 tbsp. dill spoon, 2 tbsp. spoons of green onions, 10 black peppercorns, 3 Jamaican (allspice) peppercorns.
1. Boil cucumber pickle, remove scale. Combine the brine with the meat broth, bring to a boil.
2. Meat, ham, sausages, chicken fillet cut into small cubes.
3. Pour boiling water over salted mushrooms and fresh cabbage, then cut into cubes.
4. Tomatoes, cucumbers and onions cut into small cubes.
5. The products indicated in paragraphs 2, 3, 4, together with spices and sour cream, put in a clay pot, pour boiling broth and put in the oven for 10-15 minutes. In the absence of a pot, put it in an enameled bowl and warm (let it go) over low heat, not letting it boil, also for 10-15 minutes.
SOLYANKA FISH TEAM
:
1.25 l of fish broth, 1 glass of cucumber pickle, 0.5-1 lemon, 500 g of fish fillet, 10-12 crayfish, 250 g of boiled salted pink salmon, chum salmon, 250 g of fresh sturgeon, 2 onions, 2 pickled cucumbers (or 10-12 gherkins), 2 tomatoes, 2 tbsp. spoons of capers, 12 olives, 1.5 cups of salted mushrooms, 1 carrot (large), 1 parsley (root and herbs), 10 black peppercorns, 2 tbsp. spoons of dill, 1 tbsp. spoon of green onions, 4 bay leaves, 2 tbsp. spoons of sunflower oil.
1. Combine fish broth with separately boiled cucumber pickle, put carrots, parsley cut into strips and boil over low heat.
2. Saute finely chopped onions and tomatoes in oil. Salted mushrooms scalded, cut into cubes.
3. Cucumbers cut into cubes, fresh fish - into pieces and together, with chopped salted fish, crayfish pulp and spices, combine with the products indicated in paragraphs 1 and 2.
4. Put the dishes in the oven or on a slow stove fire for 15 minutes.
5. Before serving, squeeze lemon juice into the hodgepodge (you can cut the lemon into slices - without grains - and crush with a spoon).
SOLYANKA MUSHROOM
:
1.5 liters of water, 6-8 dry porcini mushrooms, 2 cups of salted mushrooms, 12 olives, 2 cups of finely chopped cabbage, 1.5 cups of sauerkraut, 1 carrot, 1 parsley, 2 tbsp. spoons of dill, 0.5 cups of sour cream, 1 celery, 2 onions, 2 tbsp. tablespoons of butter, 2 tomatoes, 3 bay leaves, 10 black peppercorns, 0.5 lemons or 0.5 cups of sour kvass.
1. Prepare mushroom broth: boil dry mushrooms, remove them when softened, cut into strips, cook again, adding carrots, parsley, celery, cut into strips.
2. Stew fresh and sauerkraut together with tomatoes and onions in oil until soft.
3. Scald salted mushrooms, cut into small pieces.
4. Combine the products indicated in paragraphs 1, 2, 3, add spices and cook for 15 minutes over moderate heat. Season the finished hodgepodge with sour cream and lemon juice.
Noodle soup is most often found in three types: chicken noodles, mushroom noodles, milk noodles. The preparation of all three types is extremely simple, it consists of preparing the noodles, boiling the appropriate broth and boiling the noodles in the broth. Noodles for all three types are made according to the same recipe, usually from wheat flour, as well as from a mixture of wheat and buckwheat. Mixed flour noodles go best with mushroom or milk broth. CHICKEN Noodles
Put mushrooms in cold salted water and put on fire; when the water boils, remove the mushrooms, cut into strips, put back to boil, adding finely chopped vegetables. When the mushrooms are ready, pour the noodles into the boiling broth, put the pepper, bay leaf and cook until the noodles are cooked over moderate heat. At the end of cooking, season with spicy herbs, garlic and sour cream.
MILK Noodles
:
1.25-1.5 liters of milk, 0.5 cups of cream, noodles (see recipe above), 0.5 teaspoons of anise or coriander seeds, 1 teaspoon of salt.
In 2-2.5 liters of boiling salted water, dip anise or coriander seeds in a gauze bag, add noodles and cook until half cooked. Then put it in a colander, put it in boiling milk and cook until tender. At the end of cooking, fill with cream (do not bring to a boil).
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